Just follow the smell of cider and you’ll find it,” said the friendly, dark-suited House of Commons official as I showed my invite to the reception hosted by the Parliamentary Cider Group and the National Association of Cider Makers.
Sure enough, having traipsed through further beautifully Hogwart-like corridors, there it was: a marquee literally full to the awnings with cider makers, MPs, Lords and their respective retinues (must be more fun than a Shipping Reports Committee Meeting [or some such], I’d wager), plus the odd well-wisher and journo such as myself.
What do you call a vast collection of cider producers I pondered, as I battled my way to the trestle tables laden with out-size ice buckets and an array of ciders. A clutch?, A press? An overflow? Answers on a postcard… Whatever it was, with perhaps 25% more attendees than last year, my best guess was “a crush”.
But back to the glass in hand: those men and women of the orchard had not arrived empty-handed. Here was the perfect chance to try ciders new and old. From traditional scrumpy-leaning offerings, to space-age aluminium-looking bottles targeting the not-so traditional drinker, it was all there.
I took advantage – in a responsible fashion, of course – enjoying both perry and cider, even the inter-galactic Press 81, as I caught up with Geoff Bradman, MD of Suffolk family-owned Aspall’s and the delightfully named Gordon Johncox of the more westerly Aston Manor, creators of the aforementioned Press 81 (thus named because this was the 81st cider that the cider maker had created for Aston Manor. Now that’s dedication!).
Alas, I was too late for Aspall’s Mulled Cider – “when it’s gone, it’s gone”, said Geoff Bradman of the supplies supplied. Just like in the real world, it seems.
The mood was positive, reflecting the growing interest and appreciation of good cider, and talk was all about sustainability. Henry Chevallier Guild, NACM chair and partner in family firm Aspall’s, highlighted how the whole industry was building sustainability into its planning, working with Business in the Community, a charity that promotes responsible and sustainable business practice.
The art and heart of nature
Talking of charities, I had an inspiring chat with Dave Marshal who, on behalf of the Bulmer Foundation, coordinates the the Orchard Art project, taking children and adults with learning difficulties or head injuries out into the orchards. Working with local artists in the Tidnor Wood Orchards, this initiative gave those involved a chance to be outside in a safe environment. They help the artists, enjoy nature, or simply just gaze up at the trees.
As well as the immeasurable impact on the well-being of those involved, the works of art created were displayed in a well-attended exhibition at the Hereford Cider Museum.
Sensibly, the impact on those involved has been evaluated, so let’s hope there’ll be more of this. Already one individual’s care plan has been changed to include more “outdoor” time.
Meeting Martin Thatcher, MD of the eponymous family cider house was another treat. After all, Thatcher’s is often the cider one sees around-and-about the pubs, and I’ve certainly enjoyed a bottle or two of his Thatcher’s Rosie too. He braved my excited questioning, luring me into accepting the offer of a visit with the talk of the novel varieties of trees they are working with.
Then we had to hotfoot it over to the table offering samples of some of his ciders, only to discover that the only bottle of his vintage cider left was the unchilled “display” bottle. Luckily for me, Martin overruled the determined pourer and insisted that this bottle could be opened.
Ever increasing circles
Finally, just before procedures closed I caught up with the ever-engaging Gabe Cook. We last met judging at the 2011 International Cider Challenge. Since then, as well as key roles within both Bulmer’s and the National Association of Cider Makers, he has just been elected chair of the Three Counties Cider and Perry Association, the body representing many producers featured on DrinkBritain.com. A hectic evening, but still time to hint at something special arriving to mark Bulmer’s 125th birthday before he dashed off to snatch a few words with some cider producers before they left the warmth of the marquee.
As did I. Weaving my way out of the warren that is the House of Commons, wishing that every reception that I attended could be as much fun.
PostScript
In response to my crestfallen appearance, Geoff has kindly sent me a sample of the Aspall’s mulled cyder – it’s made seasonal appearances in certain pubs and bars since 2007, but somehow I’ve missed it, and Henrietta and I failed to include it in our New Year mulled cider taste-test. I’ll use the current brief frost-fest to remedy that and report back soon.