Faced with the challenge of re-establishing the reputation of the re-opened distillery in 2001, Bruichladdich took a decidedly modern approach to packaging.

Even the more standard bottlings – if Bruichladdich can be said to have standard bottlings – stand out on the shelf with their bright light blue livery, but the Black Art takes this to another level altogether.

The stars and astrological symbols promise magic within, but can the whisky live up to such a billing?

As soon as you pour a dram, the startling orange-into-red colour tells you this is a whisky which has spent some time in red wine casks. The merits of such treatment are guaranteed to divide any gathering of whisky fans, so let me just say that I like the flavours they add to the malt, before you read the rest of this review.

The nose is profoundly complex, with an unlikely array of aromas, from chocolate to fruit sweeties to the sea. It’s almost tidal, that salty note, coming in and going out again, leaving something slightly dirty behind, something earthy.

On the palate there is salt, and a very distinct light sharp tang which reminds me of the berry fruit flavours of Rioja. It is noticeably oily, something you don’t usually find in Briuichladdich, and slightly sweet, before the finish comes in, drying out to an earthy, vinous note with something of mushrooms.

A complex drop which lives up to the promise on the tin & stands as proof that the art of whisky making is thriving under the stewardship of Jim McEwan, Bruichladdich’s master distiller.

51.1% 70cl/£80 from specialist retailers. NB There is also a 21 year old release available, Black Art II.