Birds, demon badgers and listening to bubbles all add up to a peculiarly British notion of terroir as River Café sommelier and pop-up restaurateur Emily O’Hare heads off to the South Downs
"Did you hear that yaffle?" asked Peter.
Sitting at lunch with Breaky Bottom winemaker, Peter Hall in his home in Sussex, I had not heard the call of the green woodpecker. My attention was elsewhere, my ears were otherwise engaged – in a flute of Peter’s sparkling wine made from the white grape variety, Seyval Blanc. When sparkling wine is poured for me, I always like to listen to it. I like to hear those bubbles fizzing and popping, noisily celebrating their escape.