Badger Hopping Hare

Delightfully hoppy – as the name suggests – this is an uplifting golden ale that both refreshes and acts as a versatile food matcher. But then head brewer Toby Heasman was like a conductor in charge of directing a talented trio of hops.

First Gold provides the bitter platform upon which Goldings' floral notes and Cascade's citrus hints can shine. As with all Badger ales, the Dorset spring water is naturally filtered through the Cretaceous chalk downs and drawn up its own 120-feet.

Good with everything from barbecue fare through to goats cheese salad – and not bad on its own either.

I gather this is a makeover – well I have to say, on this showing, the hare is looking damn good.

4.4%, RRP: £1.85, Tesco, Sainsburys