Glengoyne 17 Year Old

The Glengoyne 17 Year Old doesn't mess about – this is a big sherried whisky, packed with raisin, chocolate, smoky coffee and plenty more.

Glengoyne 17 Year Old bottleGlengoyne mature this whisky in ex-sherry casks to give a richer more complex style than the 10 Year Old. The essential character of the distillery is still there, but just in a supporting role. So after all the sherry flavours – did I mention the savoury meaty notes, or the dark floral edge – the lemon sweeties and gentle malt that are the core of this whisky can be found.

But extra age has changed these notes: the lemon is overlaid with crystallised orange, and the fresh cereal notes become much more biscuity and toasty.

Of all the Glengoyne whiskies I've tasted, this has the best balance and the most interest. There is great complexity on the nose – it's a true meditiation dram.

70cl/43%, about £55 from The Good Spirits Co, Oddbins, or other specialist retailers.